With a hull drawing do an IOM or RG 65 hull is very easy if we use balsa wood.
The hull drawing have normally three views: bodyplan, profile and plan view.
Normally to do the hull we need only two: profile and bodyplan.
In this figure we have only one side draw and we need do the other side, normally the bodyplan comes with the two sides already drawn. An other work to do in the bodyplan is take away the planking thickness. Some body plans comes with two lines for each section that signifies the planking thickness, as do in Noux, according your planking thickness you chose what bodyplan you will use:
The bodyplan is a view of each hull cross section. We use each line to do a section in paper that we will glue in the wood, see:
After glue the sections we easy can cut each hull section and mounting in a wood base.
You see in the wood base the marks to hold the sections in his right place.
If you do the hull shell in balsa is better do the transverse sections also in balsa, to achieve a light construction, but you can also do the transverse sections in others light wood or plywood but ever thinking in a lightweight hull principally if you are think in competition.
In these photos the transverse section is in thicker plywood because this is a plug to do a fiberglass mold and so the weight is not important.
To mark the wood base we need the profile informations:
In this figure we have the position of each station and we can mark them in the wood base.
When hold the station in wood base we need put the forward sections, forward mark line and the after sections after mark line. We can see this looking to the sections that all have the paper with the station aimed for the middle of the boat.
This proceedings is to enable bevel the wood station to support the shell planking.
If you will do a plug for do a fiberglass mold you can use depron to build the stations like my friend Mauro that do a Rogue an RG 65 by this manner:
A beautiful Noob photos construction sequence was done by Andy Hoffmann : http://rg-andy.blogspot.com/
Andy kindly permitted publish it here:
IN CONSTRUCTION –> continue –> and can change something.
We have in others sites beautiful works explaining how to build a hull:
To make a bulb we have some ways:
Professional – RC Yacht Tech – http://rcyachttech.webs.com/
RC Yacht Tech manufactures fittings and custom plugs & moulds for RC yachts using CNC machining technology.
Amateur – without much experience and patient
The bulb need be made with wood (normally) to use it to do a blaster mold that will receive the molten lead.
The wood bulb should be done with the help of templates or lathe to look like designed .
To determine the shape of the bulb, we can use the bulb calculator software:
The Bulb Calculator can be download here:
With the bulb weight and the profile wanted the software give all measures
You can see how to use the Bulb Calculator here:
Box to receive the blaster:
Inferior bulb part molded – Wax all surface to do the superior part and put more blaster
The top part is done
Next we need do channels in the surfaces of the mold to the air escape when we put the melted lead. The next photos you will see a more elaborated blaster mold. The above photos is only to illustrate that anyone can melt the lead and do a bulb. Naturally a bulb done with this mold will need more finish with polyester or epoxy putty. But it solves.
Here we have a wooden bulb photo from Anderswallin.net done on a lathe:
In this link from rcgroups.com we can see a bulb casting photos:
Amateur with great skill and patience
The next photos are published in the forum RCNetwork.de in this thread:
This thread is excellent for learning all stages of construction. I suggest reading it all 🙂 , at least the part of the bulb casting, an excellent work done by the forum participant TIGA (Rainer).
Doing the wood bulb
Box for blaster
The wood bulb positioned in the under box
The under box filled with blaster
The channels to air scape
The bigger channel is for melted lead, the brass bar is for strengthen the lead
In these photos we see a problem, normally the blaster break. I suppose that is that we need do a bigger box and structure the blaster with some reinforcement like a metallic mesh.
When we finished the blaster mold is necessary to dry it. The best way is to leave it inside an oven for 4. ~ 5 hours at 120 degrees Celsius. Rather let it dry for another three or four days.
One problem with lead is spilling splash that can be violent, with the mold dry it decreases considerably.
Be careful when pouring the lead. Protect your body with cloth, at least.